Studebaker Project

OK... going to do a little work on raising the bed and it's mounting points.  If you remember we cut a notch in the frame so the truck would have the proper ride height.  So when we did that everything 'dropped'.  It also dropped the bed on which were mounted the fenders,.. so that made the fenders lower than I wanted them.  So this was the solution

 So first we had to determine how much we needed to raise the bed.  SO we tried various heights, and checked each time to see how it looked.  This is what we put in front - about 2 1/4 inches.




 Hears a view from the center of the truck looking toward the outside frame rails.  You can see the riser, and under that the slot we originally intended to use to bolt down the bed.


 Here you can see the mounting support welded onto the end of the bed.  It is also sitting in our new riser.





I got me a good little compressor from my cousin.  He was in the construction business and had several.  This is an Emglo model, it runs off of 220V




 We hooked up the new compressor to my dad's older model so they both could make air, and not run constantly.  They keep me with 100 lb air minimum at all times.  Sure makes those sanding tools hum along.  :-)


 I should of made a better picture of this, but you'll see as we go along.  I got a piece of steel 2 1/2 inches wide to make the frame.  3/4 inch sticks UP for the boards to lay in, and the rest stick DOWN so it'll hide the running board supports


 As you can see in the previous picture we put a spacing piece in between the two outer slabs so the steel would lay flat and not want to twist.  Also we needed a place to screw into so the steel should bend where we wanted it to.


This is the piece still held in the buck.  We then shaped a flat piece of steel to match the curve of the piece and welded it on so we'd have a place to bolt down the rear of the running boards.


So here is the completed running board frame. 

 This is what we put in the back, it's about 2 1/2 inches.  Each time we changed we check to see how the tire fit inside the fender.  This gave us the best overall look. This left us with a level bed from front to back.



 I had to make extensions to raise the back of the bed.  If you remember on the last page I moved the rear cross member forward to make additional room for clearance for tail lights etc.


 This is the same view only looking the opposite way.  I used the cabinet clamps to get everything in place before welding everything in place.




 Problem with the one he gave me was it had rusted a hole in one of the tanks.  So I had planned on mounting it on the big upright take I had.




As I think I mentioned earlier; we are going to put oak boards on our running boards to match the bed.  There for I had to make a running board frame for the boards to lay in.



 First we had to just make the straight part and get it cut to length.  Pretty easy so far.  You see how it will fasten to the supports here when finished.





 Here is the buck we made laid beside the fender.  It looks like a lot of curve back, but these finberglass fenders have just a tiny bit different shape then the originals ones.




SO here is the right side piece that butts up against the rear fender completed.






 You can see how it'll look when seeing it straight down the side of the truck and how it matches with the fenders

 OK. I'm going to try and explain what you are seeing.  This is a steel riser I made for the front of the bed to sit on.  (It's inside the red circle).  The yellow arrow points to the original mounting point where a piece of steel bolted on to the frame itself


 But no problems. I made this steel tube out of 7 gauge steel and drilled a mounting hole in it.  I also cut off the original plates I had made and repositioned them.



 Here is the view from the side.  I generally figure about a 2:1 ratio when I make a support like this.  So I had to stick the support about 5 inches past the end of the frame; so that left 10 inches on the frame to weld for strength.


 Needless to say all the piping wouldn't hook up exactly the same; but with a few new pieces, and little copper pipe, we got it all hooked up.  Actually improved on the original


 The old running board supports has to reach all the way out to the frame so the board lay smooth.  So I had to weld a little extension onto the end of each support



 Now we had to make a buck to fit the running boards to the fenders.  This is the same process we did several pages back when we made a buck to build our cab corners.  The buck needed to be as wide as the steel.



 Here you can see how we used the buck.  We drilled four holes on the top side, and screwed the steel to it firmly.  Then we heated the steel to make it bed and follow the contour of the buck. 



 Here you can see one of the rear pieces is done.  Dad is using it as a form to make the front pieces.  They basically just make a 90* bend.  Dad is the man with the plan when it comes to torch work.


 This is (sort of) a side view.  You can see the extended width of the steel hides the running board support arms, and keeps you from seeing a 'naked' end.

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