Studebaker Project

 Back to a little body work now that winter has gone and I can do some more sand blasting and body work (MAN I hate sanding - seems like it never ends)

 OK here we go... I have to blast the three sections of the grille, and the head board (well, I call the head board the front part of the bead) The next pic shows the grilles are all blasted and primered.  Had to do some work on them to change then from one ton grilles to 1/2 ton grilles - so got a little body work to do now

 So even though the door gaps look good, as you can see the body line is way off.  The top piece of tape shows the door body line, and the body shows the cab's body line.

 It's hard to see, but the dark areas at the bottom of the bed are recessed and/or jagged.  Seemed to me it needed something for the bondo to 'lay on' to make a square crisp edge.

Here is an old metal headboard I've had for years.  I needed some extra sheet metal so I figured this would fit the bill.  I'll use it to make the roll pan skirt across the rear of the bed.

Here is the front fender skirt test fitted.  You can see the line where the final bend will be to match the running board height

This is a full length view of the running board frames we crafted.  They'll be covered in oak wood, and I was able to find some Studebaker step plates for them also.

Here you can see it installed in the original frame.  Kinda hard to see, but if you look around the part I added, and then at the area where the glass mounts, you can see it has the same shape and width all the way around.  I was pleased the way both sides came out.  Now if I can just figure out some way to make some nice trim to cover that.

This is one of the baffles I made for the tank.  I put in two to help prevent sloshing.  Not sure if you can see it, but I put little 'legs' on

 (To right) Now I got a little issue here.  As you know we chopped the top, and lengthened the cab.  When we welded it all back together we took special care to make sure all the door gaps were perfect.  Now we get to doing the body work, and I see the body lines don't match up.

 Since I never did body work before, you know I never tried to create a new body line.  I got some putty and put it on.  Made me a pattern that fit the door, and then hand sanded the putty to match the pattern.  I was pleased with the way it came out, and you can see the lines now match.

 This is from UNDER the bed looking up at the edge - What I did was cut me a little 3/4 inch wide strip of metal, and then pop rivet it to the bottom giving me a small area to hold some putty.

 I also had the foot board from the bed, so I used it to make two of the panels for the side skirts. 

This is the fender skirt on the driver side.  You can see I have the running board frame mounted so I can get the correct height of the skirt.

I been working on these extra windows I added for the extended cab.  Just hadn't got the finished look to suit me yet, so I set about something new.  Here you can see they need "something"

Well everyone  been wanting to see pictures of how I built my home made gas tank.  Really not that hard, and I got the instructions from one of the street rod magazines.
First I tried to build it so I would have as few welds as possible.  As you know the more seams it has, the more of a chance to leak.
So I had a friend bend the steel I supplied so the bottom and sides were all one piece.

 Here you can see the 'legs' a little better.  They are bent into an "L" shape.  I made a few welds to the upper part and attached them to the baffles.  I left about 3/4 of an inch for the gas to move freely across the bottom of the tank.

 Another problem I have is I'm just can't seem to make square edges when I do putty work.  this is the back of the truck bed.  As you know I'm going to put a lower panel here just like there is in the front of the fender.  SO I come up with a solution that will work.

 As you can see, the red arrows mark where the edge is.. very sharp crisp edge now, and when I bend a piece to make the lower dress up panels they'll fit nice and clean together.

 Here is the rear side skirt temporarily mounted for test fit.  It's had to see but the rear is two inches higher than the front.  This also needs a bend at the bottom to have the correct length

This is the end of the rear panel.  As you can see the head board had a factory made crimp in it, so this will give the panel lots of strength to prevent flexing

The windows originally had a lever that open and closed them.  It created a 45* slant at the rear.  I just couldn't figure how that was ever going to cover and look nice.  So I decided to make me a frame to attached to the original window, and just square up the slanted part.  Here is what I did.  I made up a inner frame to attach to the interior of the window, and on the back of that I attached a flat piece to hide the angle.  Turned out pretty good I thought

Here you can see I took the ends and welded them in.  I welded both inside and outside to have a better chance of preventing leaks.

Now I also welded some little "L" tabs on the ends of the baffles.  This should help the tank keep it's shape and add support so it won't bulge out.
More stuff on the next page.

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